'His vision was never realized': Stepping into Anthony's Pier 4 is like stepping back into time, from the Merv Griffin photos on the walls to the spreadable cheese with Ritz crackers. I can never make up my mind whether Pier 4, once cutting edge, is hopelessly outdated or far out retro cool without even trying. ... Either way, a part of the good side of old Boston passed away yesterday with
Anthony Athanas's death. Anthony was also more
influential in the waterfront's development than he got credit for. One can only wonder how far along Fan Pier would be now had the Pritzkers, who have failed so miserably in their stewardship of the site, not won control of the parcel.
Update - 5.23 -- From John: "'Spreadable cheese with Ritz crackers'? Man, it's been a few years I think since you darkened the door at Pier 4. They haven't had the cheese spread in quite some time. Entire dining room redone a few years back. Pop-overs are still awesome though, along with the marinated mushrooms. My everlasting complaint is only about the bar...cocktails are touch and go as they're very inconsistent about keeping the soda fresh... I can't stand a flat gin and tonic!
"And Anthony's is still the only restaurant in Boston that knows how to make baked stuff shrimp--by actually stuffing them."
Maybe I should have used the past tense in my description, for it has been more than a few years since I dined at Pier 4. But I do recall being shocked they still had spreadable cheese, so it couldn't have been that long ago. ...